whats inside your hair care products?
Having a better understanding of what is inside your products as well as why it is in there enables you to make better choices around how you care for your hair!
Hair care is made up of an extensive list of ingredients that come with some amazing hair and scalp benefits and others make formulations easier but can have a negative impact on your hair, skin and overall health.
We believe that making better choices starts with having a better understanding.
phthalates
A group of chemicals often used as a preservative in cosmetic products, Phthalates are a type of “endocrine disruptors” and can cause hormonal disruptions with prolonged use, and can be dangerous to the environment.
Types to avoid: Dimethyl Phthalate DEP - These are often not listed in the ingredients list and can be hidden under the term ‘fragrances’
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peg
Polyethylene Glycols is used to thicken a product, PEG is derived from petroleum
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sulfates
Sulfates are common in hair products as a surfactant* and create a thick lather when shampooing hair. Both can trigger eye allergies, skin rashes, clogged pores and acne.
Sulfates can dry out curls and strip your hair of its natural oils, causing breakage and damage to your natural curl pattern.
Sulfates can also be harmful to the environment, harming aquatic life and polluting water
Types to avoid: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) & Sodium Laureth Ether Sulfate (SLES) & Ammonium Lauryl sulfate.
dimethicone
This is a type of silicone that is used in hair products to improve the overall feel and texture of the product, as well as creating a barrier around the hair follicle smoothing it down. Dimethicone can cause build up and prevent water entering the hair causing it to become dry and brittle.
Types to avoid:: Polydimethylsiloxane, silicone oil, dimethylpolysiloxane
silicones
Silicones are found in conditioners to help smoothen the hair, while prolonged use can coat the hair strands causing build up and prevent water from entering the hair.
Silicones can be hard to avoid or a much loved part of your styling methods, if so minimal use is recommended as well as clarifying hair to remove any build up.
Types to avoid: Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, cyclomethicone, Amodimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone ( these silicones are not water soluble meaning it is very hard to rinse off)
Dimethicone Copolyol, Stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy dimethicone. - These silicones are water soluble, meaning they do not coat the hair in the same way reducing build up
*PRODUCTS CAN BE MARKED AS SILICONE FREE AS LONG AS IT DOES NOT CONTAIN ANY HARMFUL SILICONES, IT DOES NOT NECESSARILY MEAN THERE ARE NO SILICONES AT ALL IN THE PRODUCT.
preservatives
Preservatives are used in products that contain water to prevent microbial contamination through Bacterial growth and mold. Preservatives are necessary but some can be dangerous to the skin over long periods of use.
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sodium chloride
This is a salt that helps maintain a thicker consistency in shampoos and conditioners Salt can irritate sensitive scalps and hair to become dry and itchy
parabens
Parabens are used in/most hair products to prevent the growth of bacteria, studies have shown that parabens can have negative effects on the skin, such as rashes and allergic reactions, its said that prolonged & excessive use can increase chances of breast cancer and weaken your immune system
Types to avoid: Methylparaben, isopropylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, propylparaben
triclosan/triclocarban
Polyethylene Glycols is used to thicken a product, PEG is derived from petroleum
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*surfactants
These are used in most cleansing products to make them effective cleaners, Surfactants are what causes the lather when washing giving you the impression it is cleaning away any dirt. Surfactants can be very drying and remove natural oils from skin and hair.
*A large number of products on the market contain surfactants, if you can not avoid them we recommend using one with a mild surfactant and reduce your usage where possible.
Mild Surfactants: Betaines, OGlucosides, Isethionates, Glutamates
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Types to avoid: SLS, SLES, Ammonium Laural Sulfate
toluene
Toluene is mainly used in hair dying products, It is a chemical derived from petroleum or coal tar sources, that can have an impact on your immune system and cause congenital problems.
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Types to avoid: Toluol, Phenyl-methane, methylbenzene
antioxidants
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Antioxidants are used in products to help reduce the oxidation helping to extend shelf life.
Types you may find in your hair products: Vitamin A/E/C oil, Beta Carotene, Phytochemical, Selenium
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extracts
These are plant extracts in glycerine as a way to add the plant active ingredients into a product
alcohols
Alcohols are used in products as a caring agent as well as water, some alcohols can dry out skin and hair (propanol, ethanol, isopropyl and propyl)
Fatty alcohols can be good for your hair as they can help to lock in moisture.
Look out for alcohols that start with a “c” "o" & “s”
(cotyledons alcohol, laurel alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and teary alcohol)
tea/dea
Triethanolamine (TEA) / Diethanolamine (DEA) is mainly used in shampoos to adjust the PH levels, some research has found that TEA as well as causing scalp/irritations can affect the liver & bladder.
Types to avoid: Alkanolamine, Trialkylamines, Trialkanilamnes, Monoalkylamines Monolkanolamines
pvp/va copolymer
PVP/VA copolymer is used in a lot of hair styling products to improve “hold”. It is a chemical derived from petroleum that’s known to cause irritation to the scalp, as well as respiratory issues in some people.
formaldehyde
Formaldehyde is used in shampoos as a preservative and has been classed as a carcinogen by the national intercuts for Occupational Safety & health. It is believed to impact the structure of the DNA and is easily absorbed by the skin.
Types to avoid: Urea, Methyl Aldehyde, Formic Aldehyde, Quaternium 15
*fragrance/parfum
Although this isn't a specified ingredient (often labeled under different names)
The general term Fragrance/Parfum does not give detailed information on the ingredients in the fragrance/parfum that is inside the product. With so many unknowns there is a range of potential harmful effects on the hair and skin, ranging from respiratory problems, eye irritations, allergies, to dermatitis.
These can often be hard to avoid in your products so try to avoid those with high content.
emulsifier
There are a range of different emulsifiers used in hair products, they are included to bind together water and oils to create a smooth finished product, often used in creams, lotions and leave ins.
Types to look out for: Emulsifying Wax NF, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth 20, Glyceryl Stearate, Polysorbate 20,
hydrosol
These are a byproduct of the stem distillation process of plants including leaves, stems and barks. The Vapor is cooled creating a hydrosol. Hydrosols can be used for….
emollients
These help to balance the drying impact of surfactants, helping hair keep some of the natural oils as well as lubricating the strands helping to reduce breakage and shedding.
Types to look out for: Aloe vera, vegetable oils, mineral oils, Silicones - Dimethicone